Buying and Selling Secondhand Clothes: Sizing, Condition, and Avoiding Surprises
Updated 2026-08-13
A secondhand clothing guide for both sides: why the size label lies, how to measure, the wear points that matter, fabric care, and pricing by brand tier.
Size labels lie — only real measurements matter
One brand's M and another brand's M can differ by several centimetres, and the gap widens across eras and regions. Japanese and Korean cuts run noticeably smaller than European or American sizing at the same letter, and vintage pieces often have proportions unlike anything cut today.
What you should decide on is measurements in centimetres. Sellers: lay the garment flat and measure all of it — chest (across under the arms, doubled), body length, sleeve length, and for trousers the waist, hips, inseam, and thigh. Buyers: measure a garment you already own that fits well and compare the numbers. That's far more reliable than guessing from a letter.
The wear points to check before you commit
Flattering secondhand photos are shot from the best angle, but the parts that reveal real condition are the ones nobody photographs. Ask for extra shots of, or look closely at: the underarms (yellowing from sweat and deodorant, which doesn't wash out), the collar (stretched or discoloured), elbows and knees (thin or shiny fabric), the crotch and inner seams of trousers (always the first to go), and whether zips and buttons are all present and working.
On knitwear, look for pilling along the sides and under the arms. On denim, check thinning at the crotch and seat. On anything with a sheen, look for iron-shine from the wrong temperature. A seller who photographs these areas unprompted is the seller you want to buy from — it means they're not hiding anything.
Pricing secondhand clothes by brand tier
Fast fashion depreciates hardest — it typically moves at roughly 15-30% of retail and stalls above that, because buyers can always compare against the brand's own clearance prices. Mid-tier brands with decent fabric and name recognition usually land around 30-50% if the condition is good and the cut hasn't dated.
Luxury and pieces with specific collector demand — continuing classic models, discontinued collaborations, genuine vintage in good condition — don't follow a percentage rule at all. Those are priced by scarcity and current demand rather than original retail, and some resell above what they cost new. For these, look at what's actually selling on the market rather than calculating down from a price tag.
Cleaning and prep — the step most sellers skip
Secondhand clothes that arrive smelling of storage, smoke, or someone's house are a leading cause of bad reviews and return requests, even when the garment matches the description in every other way. Wash and dry thoroughly before packing, and if it's been in a wardrobe a long time, air it again before shipping.
Check the care label first. Silk and wool need hand washing or dry cleaning. Linen creases by nature — that's the fabric, not a flaw. Vintage should be hand washed cold, since old seams don't survive a hard spin cycle. When packing, fold it properly and use a waterproof bag: Bangkok rain soaks parcels more easily than people expect.
Ship or meet up: match the method to the price
Clothing is one of the easiest categories to ship — light, unbreakable, cheap to send. In-app delivery suits almost every clothing sale, and it comes with the protection of the payment being held until the item reaches the buyer.
Meeting up makes sense when the buyer genuinely wants to try it on first, which is common with higher-value pieces or borderline sizing. If you do meet, pick a busy BTS/MRT station or mall, and agree in chat beforehand whether the buyer can walk away if it doesn't fit — so nobody's expectations differ when you're standing there.
Frequently asked questions
Should I buy clothes listed without measurements?
Message and ask first — most sellers will measure if asked, and requesting measurements is completely normal in secondhand clothing, not fussy. If a seller refuses to measure or just says it'll definitely fit, be careful: sizing is the single most common source of disputes in this category.
Can underarm yellowing be washed out?
Usually not completely. Underarm yellowing comes from sweat reacting with antiperspirant compounds and settles into the fibres over time. Various methods can fade it somewhat but rarely remove it. Sellers should photograph it and say so plainly; buyers should treat it as permanent and price it into the negotiation.
How do I tell if secondhand branded clothing is authentic?
Examine every internal label — brand tag, care tag, country of manufacture — and compare typography, stitching, and print quality against a piece you know is real. Check the internal seams, zips, and buttons for materials and finishing consistent with that brand. For higher-value items, read the luxury authentication guide as well, and always buy through a flow that holds the payment until you've inspected it.
Is it better to sell clothes as a bundle or individually?
Selling individually nets more almost every time, but it costs several times the effort. Bundles make sense for low-value-per-piece items where listing separately isn't worth the time, or for things that genuinely go together, like several kids' garments in the same size. A good formula: list the pieces with real value separately, then bundle the remainder at a price that reads as a deal.
